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"Best Liquor Store 2007" -Baltimore City Paper
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4400 Evans Chapel Road, Baltimore, MD 21211 [410]
467-1615
Wines
What we are drinking
now... (scroll down for cellar
selections)
Conde Villar Tinto
2010 $9.99/750ml Alentejano, Portugal. This is
the perfect embodiment of what I have been trying to relate
about Portuguese red table wines on the whole for years—the
perfect synthesis of easy drinkability and incredible value.
I'll be honest, I'm not sure what's in it (Aragónez, Trincadeira
and some other stuff is a fair guess). But this
superficially unassuming southern Portuguese blend really
delivers with soft, juicy cherry-berry fruit and an underlying
hint of smoked herbs.
—Armin
Peirano Estate Petite
Sirah 2010 $14.99/750ml Lodi, California. Peirano
Estate is one of Wine Underground's all-time favorite wineries.
Why? Because it's an old-school, family estate run by
a winemaker who just makes good, affordable wine with no
pretenses and no compromise. This is an elegant Petite Sirah
with rich, chewy mixed berry fruit; food-friendly acid and a
smoky/herbaceous back-end. At 13.8% alcohol it won't weigh you
down or bury your food but it still gives you the intensity you
expect from Petite
Sirah.
—Armin
Castello di Uveglie
"San Bastiano" Grignolino 2009 $13.99/750ml Monferrato Casalese,
Italy. Light-bodied which is belied by the fragrant
dried flowers and ripe fruit dominate the nose. And it's
kinda just like that on the palate, too. Bigger than it looks.
Ripe, but not at all heavy raspberry is backed up
with all those flowers and a light stoniness on the
finish. Elegant and broadly food-pairable.
—Armin
Jean
Leon "Rosaleda" Chardonnay & Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
$12.99/750ml Penedès, Spain. Sometimes you just
want a Chard or Cab that doesn't try to be anything it's
not supposed to be. Both of these wines
are just honest expressions of the varieties on
the label. The Chardonnay is all about bright
tropical fruits and pear with nice mid-palate acidity and a
touch of soft French oak spice. The Cabernet
Sauvignon brims with ripe cherry and just a touch of
anise. Jean Leon presents the basics in such simply
satisfying fashion that you'll wonder why everyone can't make
wine like
this.
—Armin
Marco
Donati Situla Rosso 2009 $12.99/750ml Mezzocorona,
Tentino, Italy. The blend of Teroldego, Lagrein and
Marzemino may be unfamiliar but, in the glass,
the soft, cherry-driven character is a familiar
simple pleasure. This is a great alternative to the
innumerable Sangioveses and
Toscana rossos that you know al too
well. Trust me, sometimes it's just as cozy outside of the
box.
—Armin
Aletta
Garnacha 2009 $10.99/750ml Campo de Borja, Spain. While
most Campo de Borja Garnachas under $15 are simple,
easy-drinking, medium-bodied fruit-bombs, this is a
dark, brooding wine that demands to be taken seriously
despite its bargain price. This is like if someone just took the
skins of blackberries and blueberries and through some sort
of arcane beverage alchemy turned it into a bottle of
lush-fruited elixir with great acid and firm tannins
and only the slightest hint of the tell-tale cigar leaf
common to its origin.
—Armin
Domaine Baron Côt (Malbec) de
Touraine 2009 $11.99/750ml Touraine, Loire Valley,
France. Bright and fruity with more acid "pop" than the
Argentine (or even Cahors) Malbecs you are likely more familiar
with. But in the summertime, this style makes so much more
sense. A little herb-rubbed chicken or pork on the grill, veggie
kabobs and this with a bit of a chill makes for a perfect
back-porch meal in my
book.
—Armin
Any Wine From
Austria In July, our "wine of the month" was
anything from Austria. That strategy didn't really work (as we
maybe sold six Austrian wines all month), but the wines are
still a whole lotta awesome and I would hate for everyone to
miss out. Few countries' wines on the whole
offer across-the-board warm-weather satisfaction as do
those of Austria. It makes sense, really, as the cool
climate and largely mountainous terrain ensure lively, crisp
whites and lighter-bodied but juicy reds. We have
several new Grüner Veltliner (King of Austrian white
grapes)bottlings, a few white and red blends as well as great
examples of St. Laurent, Zweigelt and Pinot Noir. Now is a
great time to explore Austrian
wines.
—Armin
Chateau Saintongey Bordeaux
Blanc 2009 $9.99/750 ml Bordeaux, France. Classic
Bordeaux Blanc with 80% Sauvignon Blanc/20% Semillon that is
just plain unbeatable for the price. Give you all the
elements you expect, but all to just a slightly greater
extent (that seems to make all the difference). Lean, tangy
grapefruit carries the palate with slightly tropical
undertones and a bit of creamy texture fighting
from underneath a palate-drying minerality.
—Armin
Kanonkop Kadette 2009 $13.99/750
ml Stellenbosch, South Africa. This makes two South
African "Wine of the Week" selections in a row! And, with
good reason. Loads of ripe cherry/berry + bright
acidity + touches of spice, coffee and smoke + velvety
tannins make this a go-to barbecue wine this
Summer. A real crowd-pleaser with depth, elegance
and balance! What's not to
like?
—Armin
Badenhorst "Secateurs" Chenin Blanc
$14.99/750 ml Swartland, South Africa. Exactly how
SA Chenin should taste. A perfect balance of lean
acidity/flinty minerality and orange blossom redolence/rich,
peachy fruitiness. It will be easy to drink this all Spring and
Summer (as long as it doesn't sell out by
June.)
—Armin
Alpha Box & Dice "Tarot" Grenache 2009
$13.99/750 ml Australia. Grenache is so widely used
throughout Australia's winemaking regions that it is a shame
that there is such a dearth of good, affordable monovarietal
bottlings. Alpha Box & Dice "Tarot" is out to fix
that problem with a lush, soft, darkly-fruited, blackberry and
licorice soaked but well-balanced introduction to what
has long been relegated to second-fiddle blending partner of
Shiraz.
—Armin
Roureda Negre 2009 $9.99/750
ml Tarragona, Spain. This wine asks nothing of you—simple
and easy and you won't bat an eye at the price. Perfect as
warmer weather sets in, this fun, fruity blend of Garnacha
and Tempranillo is tasty on its own, but will pair
well with everything from salads to fish to lighter grilled
dishes. It's wine—drink
it.
—Armin
Calvi Pinot Grigio 2009 & Calvi
"Rui" 2006 $12.99/750 ml Pavese, Lombardia,
Italy. Calvi in unheralded Lombardia produces these
beautiful value wines. The Pinot Grigio is serious with pear
and white peach flavors carrying through a full,
slightly oily mid-palate and into a prickly, mineral
finish. The "Rui", a blend of Barbera, Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot shows rich, ripe black cherry fading
into the popping acidity of fresh cranberry and pomegranate
finishing with a gentle spice. These are everyday winners
for the
money.
—Armin
Bodegas Weinert Carrascal 2006 $13.99/750
ml Mendoza, Argentina. Quite possibly the most
sophisticated wine you can get for the money. This
Malbec/Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon blend is Argentine in
provenance but Côtes de Bourg-meets-Catalunya in
spirit. Dense black cherry and prune is met with a
twinge of barnyard funk and graphite to create a full,
expressive wine that finds the happy medium between
easy-drinking and downright ponderous. A
wine-geek-on-a-budget's dream.
—Armin
Vinaceous "Divine Light" Verdelho 2009
$14.99/750 ml Western Australia. Rarely does a such an
apparently markting-driven name/label resonate as
accurately as they do with this remarkable wine from
Vinaceous. This is divine light in a bottle.
Super-bright, crisp, citrusy and alluring—it makes New Zealand
Sauvignon Blanc seem leaden and dull.
—Armin
Este 2009 $9.99/750
ml This South-East Mediterranean Spanish wine brings
together six of Spain's great grapes
(Monastrell/Tempranillo/Syrah/Garnacha/Cabernet
Sauvignon/Merlot) into one rich, lush cherry/berry-inflected
wine with a pervasive bacon smoke element. Dramatically
under-priced based on quality and sheer
satisfaction.
—Armin
Cusumano Syrah 2008 $13.99/750
ml Sicilian Syrah made in a Western style—ripe and soft. A
nice change of pace from Australian fruit-bombs and
American oak conduits. Just purity of dense raspberry fruit
with a touch of dark herbaceousness.
—Armin
Lamoreaux Landing Estate
White 2009 $13.99/750 ml 50% Riesling, 35% Chardonnay
7% Gewurztraminer 7% Pinot Noir (!!) and 1% Muscat Ottonel from
the Finger Lakes in New York. All of that comes together in a
lovely off-dry tropical fruited front-palate with a focused acid
and dry mineral finish. Refreshing and
unusual.
—Armin
Chateau D' Agel Minervois $13.99/750
ml You
wanna know the kind of wine that makes Armin happy? This is it.
Admittedly, I'm a sucker for Minervois wines in
general, but this one has everything I like and nothing I
don't. Lush, earthy, mixed wild-berries with a pervasive menthol
streak. Full-flavored but not too heavy for warm weather sipping
and widely pairable with any rich, expressive foods. Works
great with our Beemster 3yr aged
Gouda. —Armin
From "The
Underground" (our cellar)...
Maynard Keenan's
Merkin Vineyards Chupacabra and Arizona Stonghold wines still
available in limited supply!
A full
list of our cellar wines will be posted soon...keep an eye on
thi space!
Beaulieu Vineyards Tapestry 1999
$44.99 Last
Tasted: 03/17/2010 This was an amazing surprise! Expectations
of either fruit-flat, over-the-hill wine or
over-oaked liquid leather and cherry dust were immediately
quashed. This wine is drinking beautifully right now
and could still see a few more years in the cellar.
Currently shows bright cherry, muted spice front-to-back and
lingering vanilla on its velvety tannin finish. Just plain great
balance not far removed from ripe-and-ready Bordreaux.
—Armin
Camaraderie Cabernet Franc 2005
$24.99 Last tasted: 05/05/2010 Columbia Valley, WA. Decidedly
US style with extracted cherry fruit and loads of vanilla and
mocha. Ripe but with ample acidity to make a fine pair with
grilled bison or lamb. Drink now through
2015. —Armin
Cinnabar Pinot Noir 2006
$49.99 Last tasted: 01/27/2010 Santa Cruz Mountains, CA.
Underrated by the US critical establishment because it's more
"Old World" than most prefer. This 400 cs. Pinot is serious.
Under-ripe strawberry dusted in baking spice and plenty of
vibrant acid and dusty tannins. Drink now through
2014.
—Armin
Hartford Court "Stone Côte" (Sonoma Coast
Vineyard) Chardonnay 2008 $67.99 Last tasted:
03/09/2010 Sonoma, CA. As close as California gets to
Puligny-Montrachet with lilac on the nose, nectarine flavors,
lemony acidity and a graphite-driven minerality on the finish.
Brilliant and unmatched among US Chardonnays I've
tasted. Drink now through
2013.
—Armin Hartford Court "MacLean's Block" Pinot Noir 2007
$66.99 Last tasted: 03/09/2010 Russian River Valley, CA. This
is the first release of this biodynamic Pinot and the results
are spectacular. Black cherry and red raspberry is backed by
cedar, pine needle, cigar tobacco and toasted cinnamon. Drink
2011 through 2017-ish
(?).
—Armin Hartford Court "Far Coast" (Sonoma Coast
Vineyard) Pinot Noir 2007
$74.99 Last tasted: 03/09/2010 Sonoma, CA. Juicy, ripe black
cherry and dark raspberry rolled in mixed spices—think a
Zinfandel-like melange of cinnamon, cardamom, white pepper,
clove and nutmeg—but not at the expense of Pinot character.
character. Drink
2011-2020.
—Armin Hartford Court Arrendell Vineyard Pinot Noir
2007 $94.99 Last tasted: 03/09/2010 Russian River Valley, CA.
Dried flowers and chocolate on the nose. Dense and jammy
cherry-berry flavors, a bit of cedar and sage and a
pervasive coffee and licorice undertone that carries on the
looong finish. Singular in its complexity. Drink
2011-2020+ —Armin
Melville
"Donna's" Syrah 2006 $43.99 Last tasted:
04/22/2010 Santa Rita Hills, CA. Far more "serious" than many
CA Syrahs. Dark blackberry and currant are lifted by a very
floral nose. The fruit carries on the palate with graphite,
dried flowers and earthy spice. Drink now through
2016. —Armin
John Duval "Entity" Shiraz 2004
$33.99 Last tasted: 02/2010 The nose is intense and just
makes you want to fall into your glass (I kinda envision those
old cartoons with a character floating, led by his nose to a pie
cooling on a window sill). Medium-bodied with brilliant
mid-palate acidity cutting through rich, dark blackberry
flavors. The back palate, deeply influenced by 17 months in
French oak barriques, runs the gamut from pleasantly astringent
anise and spice to leather, dark cola and soft vanilla with
velvety tannins. if all that sounds big and bombastic, it
is...but it is still very well structured with all that fruit
and rich secondary stuff supported by sufficient acid and chewy
tannins—it's big-boned, not
fat. —Armin
Langmeil "Freedom" Barossa Shiraz 2004
$101.99 Last tasted: 10/2009 Dark, plummy fruit with nearly
opaque density acts as a substrate (think the velvet in black
velvet paintings) for chocolate, coffee and smoke. Little hints
of lavender and spice punch through the supporting French oak
cedar-like notes bringing unexpected depth and complexity to
such a BIG wine. Drink now through 2024.
—Armin
Pelissero "Nubiola"
Barbaresco 2003 $39.99 Last tasted: 12/2009 Let
this be a lesson: this is Pelissero's entry-level Barbaresco
(from younger vines) and it still ain't ready to drink. Those
1997 and 1998 single-vineyard old-vine iterations we
have in stock probably still need a couple
years. Another five years in the cellar will bring all that
ripe cherry, vanilla and cinnamon into balance.
—Armin
Nicolas Potel Morey-Saint-Denis Vielles Vignes
2005 $56.99 Medium-bodied but rich and dense flavors
of cherry and pomegranate abound. It is
the pervasive but exceptionally well integrated smokiness
that make this more than just another pinot noir. This is a
gorgeous wine from the very capable young wine-maker, Nicolas
Potel and his
passion shows.
—Armin
Betts & Scholl Hermitage Rouge 2004
$68.99 A high-wire artist, this impeccably balanced deep
blackberry colored Rhône blend (95% Syrah with the balance
comprised of Marsanne and Roussane) opens with a nose
reminiscent of peaty Islay scotch. From there it's a
tender dance of mixed berries, earth, light clove and soft
tannins. A perfect pairing with lamb or
venison.
—Armin
Brunelli Brunello di Montalcino 2001
$69.99 This shows several more years of cellar potential to go
but is drinking very nicely now. This 100% Sangiovese gets 36
months in Slovonian and French oak barriques and several months
in the bottle before we see it and the care in timing the
release is evident. Deep and rich red pour with glass-staining
intensity and a beautiful nose of dried flowers, smoke and
spice. Exceptionally full-bodied and full-flavored ripe black
cherries and earthy leather flow into a seemingly interminable
finish showing light licorice and fennel
notes. —Armin
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